trouble is, you also don't want to trip over your skirt, or wind up with a filthy hem after just a few performances. This tutorial will give you a way to take up the length on any skirt that gets worn under a belt or hip scarf. Sortta a tummy tuck for skirts! This technique is also great for circle skirts that have warped over time, to take up places where the hem has stretched longer over time.
Start by taping or drawing a line around your dress dummy that represents where you wear your skirt on your hips. Measure from there to the floor the length you need on yourself. That is, measure straight from your skirt band to the floor, wearing the shoes you like to dance in. I do this by putting the end of the tape measure just touching the ground and holding the end with the final measurement at my hip. adjust the dummy so the line you drew matches that measurement.
As you can see in the photo, I have this bunched into segments to make it manageable.
You could add fabric between these cuts, in the fashion of a yoke, to lengthen the skirt, if you had a long enough belt or other hip wrap to cover it.
You'll need to combine these into the new length skirt. If the skirt is a circle skirt or an A line the two pieces are not going to match up. To understand this, draw a triangle on a pice of paper, then fold the middle part under, and try to line up a lower tier of the triangle with the top tier. The way we're going to fix this is by pleating the fabric of the skirt into the waist band as follows:
- Lay the waistband on a flat surface. If you had slits in the skirt you'll still be able to see where that was. line up the old slit on the skirt portion and the waistband portion with right sides together.
- Next, find the center of the skirt portion and pin it to the center of that portion of the waistband.
- Pin from the outside, near the slit, towards the center keeping it smooth. The elastic will cause the gathering effect once the skirt is finished. If your skirt is also sheer then you want the denser gathering of fabric to be over your crotch and the center of your tush, because the gathered fabric is more opaque.
- When you get towards the center, you will create a gather by pinning in Fibonacci until the skirt is secure enough to fit under your presser foot.
- by Fibonacci I mean pull the fabric between two pins up and find the middle, pin it to the half way point between the two pins on the waist band, and repeat this for the now half-sized spaces between the pin that was your outside pin and the one that became your midway pin.